Maasai Cultural Safari - Day 2

I'm so far behind on my blog, so here I am trying to catch up. Thanks for the interest from everyone. Glad my rambling thoughts are turning out to be somewhat interesting. Back to Maasailand...

Participation in the goat slaughter is, of course, optional, but we all decided we would give it a try. When in Rome. They kill the goat by suffocation, which they do surprisingly peacefully and nonchalantly. They hold it down completely so there is no apparent struggle. Still this was the part I could not watch entirely. It was a small goat that most of us would probably rather pet than eat. It let out a bleat when they first grabbed it, and I had an unfortunate accidental glance directly at its open eye as they held it down, which I'm certain was staring directly at me. After they made sure it was dead by poking its eye - one of my friends had that unfortunate accidental glance - they proceeded to skin it and take it apart with their knives and then cook the meat over a fire. I could not watch the first cut, but I did watch the rest of the process, and I was impressed by the skill and efficiency with which they operated. The entire process took probably less than an hour. They consume each and every part of the goat except for the eyes and the brain. This includes drinking the blood. As Kesuma told us, it's food. We were invited to drink also, and a couple of us were planning on at least attempting it, but once we realized this meant slurping it either out of someone's hand or directly out of the body cavity, chunky guts and all, we backed out. We did, however, each get a custom tailored bracelet-type adornment made from the skin which loops around the middle finger, down the back of the hand, and around the wrist. The warriors wear them, and it's considered good luck when it breaks on your hand, which could take a couple months.

Breakfast followed and then was a brisk hike up the mountain to Kesuma's mother's and grandmother's boma, which is a traditional Maasai house. They are round structures made of cattle dung and ash with grass or thatch roofing, and they are built by the women. During the hike we learned about different trees and plants used as traditional medicines. There are medicines for oral hygiene, malaria, colds, gonorrhea, forgiveness (taken to someone you have wronged), rousing warriors... There is quite an extensive pharmacy in the savannah. We passed lots of people along the way as Saturday is market day. Heading to the market were warriors in small groups, boys herding cattle, and women with baskets which would likely later be carried home full on their heads. Children approach with their heads bowed for you to touch their heads. Everyone stops to talk to everyone they pass, and they are constantly joking. They are a very fun-loving group, and we wished we could have been in on more of the jokes as they were all apparently hilarious.

When we reached our destination near the top of the mountain, we saw a few bomas, one of which was Kesuma's family's and one which houses goats. The cows are kept in an uncovered encirclement, but as they were on their way to the market that day we used the area to do beadwork with some women, including Kesuma's wife and grandmother. The women were seated on "mats" made from cowhide, and we were each given a small stool to sit on. We each made a bracelet and then bought a few of the women's wares before we went inside the boma. Kesuma pointed out the "bedrooms," which were bascically just platforms molded inside the walls where people sleep. It was difficult to grasp that it was really someone's home and was where they slept.

All in all, this experience was one that we all agreed we'd never forget. If you ever make it to Africa, I highly recommend it. I happen to know a great guide.